Black P-Tex (PTex) Snowboard or Ski Repair 5x15cm Strips

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Seller: maverixsnowltd ✉️ (968) 100%, Location: Luton, Bedfordshire, GB, Ships to: WORLDWIDE, Item: 112220992275 Black P-Tex (PTex) Snowboard or Ski Repair 5x15cm Strips . Five p-tex (ptex) strips. Each strip is approx: 150mm x 8mm x 1mm What is P-tex? P-tex is the abbreviated name for Polyethylene. There are 10 major classifications of Polyethylene. For snowboards and skis the form used is UHMWPE or Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene. Its the same material used to make bullet proof jackets as well as hip and knee replacements. The main reason for its choice for skis and snowboards is it's low moisture absorbsion, very low coefficient of friction and being resistant to abrasion.  There are two different forms of bases that you may have heard about. They are extruded and sintered. You can find out more about them here. The key thing is that extruded is cheaper and slower yet easier to bond p-tex to (repair). Sintered is expensive, faster, and less easy to bond p-tex to. You often hear about grades of base (1300 extruded, 2000, 4000 sintered). This relates to the molecular weight of the Polyethylene used. The higher the number the more resistant the base is to friction heating, losing wax and becoming slow.  How to repair your skis or snowboard Once you have selected what you want to repair you need to clean the gouge out, making sure it has a little bit of depth or the p-tex will not bind to the base. You should aim to have the hole around 1-2 mm deep. You can use the corner of a metal scraper to clean out any debris, wax and a little bit of p-tex to make it to the required depth. If you have some sandpaper you can roughen up the surface a little. This provides a better base for the p-tex to bond to, but make sure you clean it afterwards with base cleaner so there is no dirt in the scratch. Allow at  20 minutes for the base cleaner to evaporate before you proceed. Pick your colour Pick the p-tex colour you want to use. Generally you’ll have white that produces clear filler or black. The thinner the p-tex the easier it will be to heat up and melt. This ptex is very thin enabling easy repairs to be carried out.   Thin p-tex can hold its own flame easily once it gets up to temperature. Place a metal scraper or something that does not easily burn next to the area you want to repair, so when you light the p-tex it does not damage the base as you get get the p-tex upto temperature. Once it starts to melt you can then move the p-tex over to start filling the hole With clear p-tex you can get a lot of carbon (black spots) in it if you raise it too high as it burns. Keep it low enough to maintain a nice blue flame, but not high enough to develop the typical candle flame colour (as above). You do not have to worry so much about this with black p-tex as you'll never see the carbon deposits. Trace the area that requires repairing with the burning p-tex, taking your time and try to avoid lingering in one spot as that will build up lumps of p-tex on the board. Those lumps will most likely not fully bond to the board and require additional tools like a flat bastard file to remove the excess. If you go too fast you will get lots of little drops on the base that may not fill in the hole. To keep the repair even place your hand on the board or ski and slide it along rather than holding my hand above the board. Once you have melted the p-tex into the hole, leave it to cool for approximately 20 minutes.  To complete the repair you'll need to sharpen your metal scraper. Lay out a suitable fine grade file and run your scraper along its length at a slight angle to clean and sharpen the edge. Once your ready run the scraper at a 35-45 degree angle following the repair or very slightly off the line of the stratch with the thumbs of both hands pressing against the back of the scraper creating a slight warp in the blade. That will give you extra pressure to scrap the p-tex flush with the board or ski. If the p-tex becomes a little rough you have started scraping too early. If the p-tex lifts out of the hole you may have melted too much into it and be scraping too much at right angles to the hole, or the gouge was a little shallow. If you have not filled in enough of the hole, re-apply more p-tex. Once you have done that the board should be ready for either a gentle sand down over the repair or be ready for waxing. As with anything like this if you do not really want to risk your equipment leave it to a professional.
  • Condition: New
  • Brand: Unbranded
  • MPN: KU3390-1

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